Choosing the right fabric for a suit can make all the difference in style, durability and comfort. For suit fabric buyers, wholesalers and store owners, understanding the weave can help make better decisions and happy customers. Among the most popular and timeless weaves for suiting fabrics are twill, sharkskin, herringbone and birdseye (or nailhead). Twill for example has a diagonal pattern which not only makes it more durable but also gives it a unique texture. Each weave has its own characteristics that affect the look, texture and practicality of the suit.

This guide will break down the characteristics of these weaves so you can use as a reference to expand your knowledge and choose the right fabric for you.

Twill – The Suit Fabric

What is twill fabric for suits?

Twill is one of the most popular weaves for suiting fabrics, it has a diagonal pattern on the surface. These diagonal lines are a result of the weaving process where the weft thread passes over one or more warp threads then under two or more warp threads.

Twill suit fabric characteristics

• Durability: Twill is a sturdy weave, perfect for suits that can withstand daily wear and tear without losing shape or structure.

• Crease-Resistance: With its dense weave, twill fabric resists creases, a low maintenance option for busy professionals.

• Subtle Texture: The diagonal lines adds depth and sophistication without being too flashy, twill is suitable for both business and formal occasions.

• Weight Range: Twill fabrics come in various weights, from lightweight summer suits to heavier winter suits.

Twill suits are for those who want durability and elegance. It’s a basic fabric, must have in any wardrobe or fabric store.

Sharkskin – Classic Elegance

What is sharkskin fabric?

Sharkskin is a woven pattern created by blending two contrasting threads (usually black and white). The result is a smooth texture that looks like sharkskin hence the name.

Sharkskin fabric characteristics

• Luxurious Shine: Sharkskin is a favorite among those who want a refined look. It has a subtle sheen that makes any suit look great.

• Versatility: Its subtle elegance makes sharkskin a top choice for weddings, business meetings and other semi-formal to formal occasions.

• Durability: The tightly woven fabric is durable without sacrificing comfort, perfect for daily use.

For wholesalers or fabric stores that cater to high end suit buyers, sharkskin is a must have. It’s practical and has a bit of glamour.

Herringbone – Classic and Unique

What is herringbone fabric?

Herringbone fabric gets its name from the V-shaped pattern it has. This weave alternates the direction of the diagonal patterns creating a zigzag effect that stands out but still elegant.

Why herringbone?

• Visual Interest: Herringbone adds character to a suit without losing its formality. The texture is a balance of traditional and trendy.

• Substantial Weight: Depending on the material, herringbone weaves are heavier, perfect for winter.

• Timeless: This weave has been a favorite for decades and still a go to for those who want sophisticated statement pieces.

Herringbone suits are perfect for leisure suits or occasions that require a stylish but not too formal look.

Birdseye (or Nailhead) – Subtle Sophistication

What is birdseye fabric?

Birdseye is also known as nailhead, has a small repetitive pattern that looks like tiny dots or the eye of a bird. The dots are evenly spaced for a streamlined, professional look favored by executives.

What’s special about birdseye?

• Subtle Texture: Birdseye fabric’s texture is only noticeable upon close inspection, not overwhelming.

• Breathability: This weave is often used with lightweight wool fabrics, perfect for all season wear.

• Sleek Look: Birdseye is for business suits and boardroom settings, it’s understated elegance.

If your clients or customers are looking for something between plain solids and bold patterns, birdseye fabric is a versatile and stylish compromise.

Choosing the Right Weave for You

When choosing a suit fabric, the weave is a crucial factor in the overall look and feel of the final product. Whether you’re a wholesaler deciding which fabrics to stock or a buyer choosing material for a custom suit, knowing these weaves will help you make informed decisions. While twill fabric has its own benefits, other fabrics like linen and cotton have different characteristics like breathability so you have more fabric options.

• For practicality and versatility, twill is a safe bet.

• For sophistication and a bit of shine, sharkskin is the way to go.

• For a weave that has texture and timeless charm, herringbone suits.

• To add subtle detail to a professional wardrobe, birdseye suits has understated elegance.

Conclusion for Fabric Sellers and Buyers

Knowing the suit weaves like twill, sharkskin, herringbone and birdseye is key to the suiting world. Share this knowledge to your clients in-store or online and you’ll build trust and grow your business.

For fabric wholesalers and buyers, stocking these timeless weaves will ensure you cater to different customers, whether they’re suit fabric buyers looking for durability or style conscious professionals wanting a fashion edge.

*Looking to stock up on the best twill

Know Your Suit Fabric – The Weave

When choosing the perfect suit fabric, the weave is key. The weave determines the look of your suit and its durability, comfort and versatility. Whether you’re a fabric wholesaler looking to add to your inventory, a fabric store owner wanting to educate your customers or a suit fabric buyer wanting to make an informed decision, knowing these weaves is essential.

This article covers four suit fabric weaves—twill, sharkskin, herringbone and birdseye/nailhead so you can choose the right fabric for every situation.

Twill Suit Fabric

What is Twill?

Twill weave is one of the most common and well known weaves used in suit fabrics. Unlike plain weave which has no diagonal ribbing like twill, twill fabric is woven where the weft thread crosses over one or more warp threads before going under two or more warp threads. The result is a fabric with diagonal lines.

Twill: Diagonal Pattern

• Durability: Twill fabric for suits is tough and wear and tear resistant, great for daily wear.

• Wrinkle Resistance: Its tight weave reduces wrinkling so your suit looks sharp all day.

• Soft Drape: Twill has a softer hand and more refined drape than plain weaves, adds elegance to tailored suits.

• Versatility: Twill suit fabric is a versatile fabric available in various patterns like pinstripes, houndstooth and plaids so you have design options.

Types of Twill Weaves

Twill weaves are loved for their versatility and durability so they’re used in many types of clothing. Here are the common types of twill weaves and their characteristics:

• Worsted Twill: Made from worsted wool, this twill weave has a smooth texture and is durable. Worsted twill is top choice for suits and dress shirts, looks refined and can withstand daily wear.

• Cotton Twill: Breathable and versatile, cotton twill is a staple in casual wear. From jeans to chinos and summer suits, this twill weave is comfortable and stylish for daily wear.

• Plain Twill: A simple over-and-under pattern of warp and weft threads, plain twill is used in work wear and uniforms. Simple and strong it’s practical for functional garments.

• Herringbone Twill: A broken pattern creates a chevron design. Herringbone twill is a favourite for suits and coats, adds elegance and texture to formal wear.

• Gabardine Twill: Made with a stiff warp yarn and a soft weft yarn, gabardine twill is durable and water resistant. Used in trench coats, raincoats and other outerwear, it’s protection and style.

• Birdseye Twill: Small rounded pattern that looks like a bird’s eye, birdseye twill is used in suits and dress shirts. This weave adds texture and elegance to formal wear.

Each twill weave has its own benefits so choose the right one for your needs and preferences. Whether you need a durable fabric for daily wear or a fancy one for formal occasions, there’s a twill weave for that.

When to Choose Twill: A Versatile Fabric

Twill is a versatile fabric for business suits, formal wear and even casual blazers. Practicality with elegance, perfect for professionals who need durability and timelessness.

Sharkskin

What is Sharkskin?

Sharkskin fabric has a subtle two tone textured look which is achieved by weaving two different coloured threads in an alternating pattern. This unique weaving gives it a smooth finish that looks like a shark’s skin hence the name.

Sharkskin Features

• Sophistication: Sharkskin suits have a slight sheen that’s classy, great for formal occasions.

• Stretch and Comfort: The weaving process has a slight stretch for more comfort for longer wear.

• Lightweight: Sharkskin is lighter, great for warm weather.

• Durable: Despite looking refined, sharkskin fabric is strong and can hold its shape over time.

When to Choose Sharkskin

Sharkskin is for high end events, weddings and business wear. Favourite among executives and those who want to look elevated and polished. The subtle sheen is also great for evening wear.

Herringbone

What is Herringbone?

Herringbone weave creates a zigzag pattern that looks like a fish skeleton. The pattern is achieved by alternating the twill weaves, hence the chevron design.

Herringbone Features

• Timeless: Herringbone has a classic look that never goes out of style, a staple for traditional suits.

• Texture and Depth: The zigzag adds visual interest and texture to the fabric without being too loud.

• Variety: Herringbone fabrics come in bold and subtle patterns, more style options.

When to Choose Herringbone

Herringbone is good for winter suits, overcoats and sports jackets. Choose it for occasions where you want a mix of formality and traditional charm. It works for business and casual wear.

Birdseye / Nailhead

What is Birdseye?

Birdseye weave has small repetitive dots that look like birds’ eyes. This pattern is achieved by using contrasting warp and weft threads to create small geometric shapes. Nailhead is often a variation of birdseye with small repetitive dots but with a rougher finish.

Birdseye/Nailhead Features

• Subtle Design: The small textured patterns adds visual interest without overpowering the suit.

• Breathability: Birdseye fabrics are lighter and breathable for longer wear.

• Durability: The tight weave makes the fabric more durable, resistant to pilling and fraying.

• Versatility: The understated pattern works with solid colours and patterned shirts or ties.

When to Choose Birdseye/Nailhead

Birdseye and nailhead is versatile for business and semi formal wear. Perfect for professionals who want to add subtle sophistication to their wardrobe without being too loud.

Choosing the Right Fabric for the Occasion

The fabric weave determines the look and feel of your suit. Here’s how to decide based on your needs and occasions:

• Everyday Wear: Twill for durability and wrinkle resistance for daily business suits.

• Special Occasion: Sharkskin for the sheen for formal events and evening wear.

• Seasonal Style: Herringbone for winter, for style and practicality.

• For Classic Elegance: Birdseye and nailhead for a balance of classic and modern styles for various occasions.

Level Up Your Suit Game

Choosing the right suit fabric is as much about style as it is about function. Each weave has its own characteristics that suits different needs and occasions. Twill is versatile and durable, sharkskin is elegant, herringbone is timeless and birdseye/nailhead is subtle.

Whether you’re a fabric wholesaler, retailer or a suit enthusiast, knowing these weaves will help you make better buying and styling decisions. Make your next suit not just a piece of clothing but a statement of style and substance.

For more expert insights into suit fabrics or to explore premium fabric options, contact us today.

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