How To Sew Knit Fabric Without A Serge

Knit fabrics are comfortable, versatile, and incredibly popular in the world of sewing. However, sewing knit fabrics without a serger can feel intimidating, particularly for beginners. The good news? You don’t need a serger to achieve professional-quality results when working with knit fabrics.

This step-by-step guide will walk you through essential techniques and tools to sew knit fabric with ease using only a standard sewing machine. From adjusting your machine to handling the fabric itself, these tips will help you master the art of sewing knits—no serger required.

1. Preparing Your Sewing Machine for Knit Fabric

Essential Machine Adjustments:

Before diving into your knit fabric project, it’s crucial to prepare your sewing machine to handle the unique properties of knit fabrics. Here are some essential adjustments to make:

1. Thread Tension: Adjusting the thread tension is key when working with stretchy knit fabrics. A slightly looser tension helps prevent puckering and distortion, ensuring your seams remain smooth and flexible.

2. Stitch Length and Width: Opt for a shorter stitch length and a narrower stitch width. This combination provides the necessary flexibility and prevents the fabric from stretching out as you sew.

3. Presser Foot Pressure: Reducing the presser foot pressure is vital, especially when working with thin or delicate knit fabrics. This adjustment prevents the fabric from being stretched or distorted as it moves through the machine.

4. Needle Type: Always use a ballpoint or stretch needle when sewing knits. These needles have a rounded tip that gently pushes through the fabric without causing runs or distortion, ensuring smooth and even stitches.

5. Sewing Machine Foot: Consider using a walking foot or even feed foot. These specialized feet help guide the fabric smoothly, preventing bunching or dragging and ensuring even stitching.

By making these essential machine adjustments, you’ll set yourself up for success, allowing you to sew knit fabrics with confidence and achieve professional-looking results.

1. Change Your Needle

The type of needle you use can make or break your project when sewing knits. Knit fabrics are stretchy by nature, and using the wrong needle can result in skipped stitches, snagged fibers, or even damaged fabric. Instead of a universal needle, opt for one specifically designed for stretchy materials to ensure smoother, more precise stitching. Additionally, always consult your sewing machine manual for specific settings and adjustments to achieve the best results.

Two Popular Needle Options:

• Ballpoint Needle

This needle has a rounded tip that gently slides between the fibers instead of piercing them. Ballpoint needles are excellent for standard knit fabrics like jersey and interlock.

• Stretch Needle

Designed with a slightly sharper point and a specialized eye, stretch needles work best with highly stretchy fabrics such as spandex or lycra blends. When sewing stretch fabrics, using the right needle is crucial to avoid issues like skipped stitches and to ensure the longevity of your seams.

When in doubt, refer to your sewing machine’s manual or visit a local sewing store for more guidance on compatibility.

2. Make Friends with Zigzag Stitch

What stitch works best for knit fabrics? While the straight stitch is perfect for wovens, it lacks the stretch needed for knit garments. Enter the zigzag stitch—a lifesaver for horizontal seams such as necklines, armholes, and hems.

Using a narrow zig zag stitch is particularly beneficial for sewing knit fabrics, as it allows the fabric to stretch without breaking stitches.

Why Zigzag Stitch Matters:

• Promotes Stretchability

Unlike straight stitches, zigzag stitches flex with the fabric, preventing popped seams when pulling garments on or off. Additionally, using a stretch stitch is essential for maintaining the fabric's elasticity and preventing popped seams.

• Avoids Setting Stretch

Knit fabric can stretch out as you sew. A straight stitch may lock this stretched fabric in place, affecting the garment’s fit. Zigzag stitching allows the fabric to retain its natural elasticity.

Pro Tip:

For vertical seams (e.g., side seams or pocket edges), you can stick to a basic straight stitch if the stretch is less critical. Just ensure you adjust the tension for a clean, strong finish.

3. Try a Different Presser Foot

The presser foot is another secret weapon for sewing knits effectively. One common challenge sewists face is fabric layers misaligning while sewing. To prevent this, consider switching to a specialized foot, such as a walking foot or a dual feed foot attachment.

Using walking feet helps to prevent fabric distortion and ensures even feeding, especially when working with delicate materials.

Benefits of Using a Specialized Presser Foot:

• Prevents Stretching

These feet grip the fabric evenly and guide layers simultaneously through the machine, ensuring smooth and consistent stitching.

• Minimizes Shifts

Using the right presser foot reduces uneven feeding, eliminating puckered seams or misaligned fabric edges.

Check your machine’s compatibility and instructions for installing presser foot attachments. Both options work wonders for improving the overall quality of your knit sewing projects.

5. Understanding Knit Fabric Seaming Options

Exploring Different Seaming Techniques:

When it comes to seaming knit fabric, choosing the right technique can make all the difference. Here are some common seaming options to consider:

1. Zigzag Stitch: The zigzag stitch is a go-to for seaming knit fabrics. Its flexibility allows the seam to stretch with the fabric, making it ideal for horizontal seams like shoulder seams or waistbands.

2. Straight Stitch: While a straight stitch can be used for seaming knit fabrics, it lacks the flexibility of a zigzag stitch. It’s best suited for vertical seams, such as side seams or sleeve seams, where stretch is less critical.

3. Overlock Stitch: If you have access to an overlock stitch on your sewing machine, it’s a fantastic option for knit fabrics. This stitch is strong and flexible, perfect for seams that will endure stress, like armholes or neckline seams.

4. Coverstitch: A coverstitch is a specialized stitch designed for knit fabrics, ideal for hems, cuffs, and other areas requiring a strong, flexible seam. If your machine has this capability, it’s worth using for a professional finish.

By understanding these different seaming options, you can choose the best technique for your knit fabric project, ensuring durable and flexible seams that look professional.

4. Avoid Stretching the Fabric

It’s easy to unintentionally stretch knit fabric and other stretch fabrics while sewing, especially when it’s feeding into the machine. However, unnecessary stretching can warp the fabric and create uneven stitching.

How to Properly Handle Knit Fabric:

• Keep It Flat

Make sure the fabric lays flat in front of the machine. If your fabric hangs off the edge of your sewing table, it could stretch out, leading to distortion. Using an extension table can help, or consider propping the fabric up to keep it level. When sewing knit fabrics, keeping the fabric flat is crucial to prevent distortion and ensure smooth seams.

• Adjust Often

Take your time sewing knits. Pause frequently with your needle down to readjust the fabric and realign the raw edges. This added attention prevents puckering and uneven hems.

Pro Tip:

Slow and steady wins the race while sewing knits. Rushing through a project is likely to stretch out the fabric or compromise the durability of your seams.

7. Finishing Touches for Professional Results

Techniques for a Polished Look:

To give your knit fabric project a truly professional finish, it’s essential to focus on the finishing touches. Here are some techniques to help you achieve a polished look:

1. Topstitching: Topstitching not only adds a decorative element but also reinforces seams. Use a contrasting thread color for a visible topstitch that stands out and adds a professional touch to your project.

2. Hemming: Hemming is crucial for a clean finish on knit fabric projects. Use a zigzag stitch or a coverstitch to create a strong, flexible hem that will hold up over time.

3. Seam Finishing: To prevent fraying and give your project a professional look, finish your seams with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch. This step ensures your seams are neat and durable.

4. Pressing: Pressing is an often-overlooked step that can make a big difference in the final appearance of your project. Use a steam iron to press seams and remove wrinkles, giving your garment a crisp, professional finish.

By paying attention to these finishing touches, you can elevate your knit fabric projects, making them look polished and complete, just like store-bought garments.

Why Sew Knit Fabric Without a Serger?

While sergers offer faster stitching for knit fabrics, standard sewing machines can deliver equally professional-looking results with the right techniques. Plus, incorporating these methods expands your creativity and problem-solving capabilities as a sewist.

Using a double needle is another excellent technique for creating strong, flexible seams in knit fabrics. It provides a decorative double line of stitching while maintaining the seam's elasticity, making it ideal for hemming garments made from stretchy materials.

Key Takeaways for Mastering Knits:

• Use a ballpoint or stretch needle suitable for the elasticity of the fabric.

• Set your machine to a zigzag stitch for horizontal seams and straight stitches for vertical seams when appropriate.

• Prevent fabric stretching with a walking or dual feed foot and handle the material gently.

• Take your time and treat each seam carefully to avoid errors.

• Use a twin needle for achieving professional finishes on knit garments, as it mimics a coverstitch and prevents common issues like tunneling.

By implementing these five steps, you can sew knits confidently with a standard sewing machine, creating garments that look as good as store-bought.